Most travellers in Asia tend to learn to drive a scooter at one point or another. I learned how to drive in Indonesia last year and since then I’ve been driving everywhere! It’s a wonderful experience, very convenient and gives you the flexibility you need as a traveller.
If you can comfortably drive a motorbike/scooter, it’s a wonderful experience completing a motorbike loop. This usually involves multiple days of driving long distances on your motorbike/scooter, staying in homestays and visiting various points of interest along the way.
Thakhek Loop Overview
Thakhek loop is a 3-4 day biking adventure from Thakhek town located 7 hours south of Vientiane. 500 km loop will take you from Thakhek Town all the way north to Konglor and then back to Thakhek.
It is advisable to go back the same way as you drove to Konglor, but you can choose to complete the loop via Highway 13 if you have less time. Highway 13 is considered quite dangerous and more accidents are likely to happen along the way. Going back the way you came to Konglor will only take an extra 50 km and you get to stop along the way and explore more places (I still like to consider it a loop! It’s just more fun and safer to go back the same way).
Don’t drive in darkness, narrow roads and mad truck drivers are not a great combination when it’s pitch black! Usually, the roads aren’t lit.
I highly recommend to travel in a group, and not just for safety reasons. It’s significantly more fun to explore caves, swim in waterfalls and go cliff jumping with friends. This doesn’t mean you shouldn’t do the loop if you’re solo. I started my loop solo! after all, I am a solo backpacker! But it didn’t take long to meet wonderful people along the way – from starting my journey solo to becoming a group of 4 awesome solo backpackers!
Where to rent a motorbike/scooter
Mixay – a very reputable company, it’s run by a very sweet local lady. Motorbikes are in fantastic condition! This is where I got my scooter.
Automatic scooter: Kip 100, 000 per day
Mad Monkey – another very reputable rental service, run by a German gentleman. Motorbikes are in great condition.
Automatic scooter: Kip 100 000 per day
Wang Wang – by far the least reputable company of them all, but many backpackers choose to go with this company because it’s the cheapest. Scooters are not usually maintained, so it’s more likely to endure a breakdown.
Semi-automatic scooter: from Kip 60 000 per day
Kin – another good company, however, they only rent semi-automatic scooters.
Semi-automatic scooter: Kip 70 000 per day
I chose to rent an automatic scooter with Mixay and I was very satisfied! Service was great and fast, my backpack and laptop were kept very safe inside the house. Showers available if required. I am happy to have chosen a very reputable company with good scooters, after all my safety was my priority.
What to bring
- Plenty of water
- Torch
- Mosquito spray
- Sunscreen
- Comfortable shoes
- Swimwear
Route
I want to post a recommended route, this is not exactly how I travelled – it’s how I wish I did! Please note that weekends tend to be significantly busier at the caves and waterfalls as many locals take day trips to chill in nature.
Day 1 Thakhek to Thalang
This is the typical start to the first day of the loop! The best time to leave Thakhek is around 9 am after a good big breakfast. Check out Song Fang Khong for some very delicious local and western breakfast.
The first day is all about exploring the caves, this is why the first part of the Thakhek loop is often referred to as the ‘Cave Alley’.
Xieng Liap Cave
The first stop is the Xieng Liap cave but the small street off the main road is not easy to find. You will find a small path just before the bridge. Check out the google maps link I posted below to help you locate the way.
This cave is massive, if you’re feeling adventurous you can ‘climb’ through the entire cave to the other side. The route is rocky, but it’s common for travellers to attempt to go the whole way. This will take you approximately 30 minutes round trip.
Entrance: free
Parking: free
Google maps
Phaya In Cave
Significantly smaller cave however you can walk down the rocky ‘path’ until you see the exit on the other side. It’s truly beautiful, but beware the way can be flooded.
Entrance: free
Parking: free
Google maps
Tham Aen Cave
This is the last stop before taking on an 85 km drive to Thalang for the night.
The biggest cave of the day, the first part of the cave is lit up on the inside with many different colours. At the end of the walk, you can take a boat tour to take you deeper into the cave, highly recommended.
The boat tour will take approximately 2 hours and you will stop along the way to allow you to walk and explore the depths of the cave. This tour will include mostly exploring on foot, however, the boat will enable you to get to those places which otherwise would be impossible.
Entrance: Kip 30 000
Boat tour: additional Kip 20 000
Parking: free
Google maps
Thalang, Sabaidee Guesthouse
Definitely part of the Thakhek loop experience. Sabaidee Guesthouse is always very lively, this is where most travellers will spend their night.
If you have an opportunity, you should definitely go for a double room! You can meet lots of solo travellers and share the room. A private room will cost you the same as if you stay in the dorm, but it will be much cleaner, beds more comfortable and you will have a mosquito net.
Check out the sunset from the bridge, 5 minutes away from the guesthouse. You can also walk down from the bridge, closer to the river and explore the unique surroundings of dead trees (I know, it sounds creepy! but they create a very unique environment).
After sunset, BBQ buffet at the guesthouse is the best! At Kip 50 000 you get starters, mains, sides, and desserts. The food is delicious and lots of other travellers will join in. You can buy some beers and hang out with other travellers or meet new friends to travel together.
Dorm Bed: Kip 30 000
Private Room (2 people): Kip 60 000
Google maps
Day 2 Thalang to Konglor
This is the prettiest drive on the loop as the landscape are most varied. There are multiple stops that you can do along the way, however it’s a long drive so I recommend to take your time and enjoy the views, the cold springs and a viewpoint!
Cool Springs
Start your day with a long 80 km drive to the Cold Springs. Grab some food along the way as you won’t be able to buy much at the springs.
Along the loop you will see a signpost for the cold springs, follow these directions. Otherwise, it’s very difficult to navigate on maps.me or google maps.
Beautiful deep turquoise cold springs definitely live up to their name, the water here is absolutely freezing! But can you imagine arriving midday at the peak of 40C degree heat?! This place is a blessing.
Please note that this place is very local and people swim wearing their clothes. Locals aren’t used to seeing girls in the bikini, for cultural reasons and respect it’s better to cover up.
Entrance: Kip 20 000
Parking: free
Google maps
Limestone Forest Viewpoint
A small detour on your way to Konglor. The Limestone Forest Viewpoint is located on the side of the road, so you don’t need to hike.
If you’re considering completing the whole loop by going through Highway 13, then this stop will be on the route and you can choose to come here on your last day instead.
If you stay at the Limestone Forest Viewpoint for sunset, then you will need to drive 50 km to Konglor in the dark. The road condition is pretty good, only in a few parts, there will be a dirt road. Also the road to Konglor is not used by the big trucks, so it’s not so bad if you need to drive at night. You should mostly be careful driving on the narrow road, there is not much light so ensure your motorbike lights are working.
Entrance: free
Parking: free
Google maps
Konglor, Enjoy Boy Guesthouse
Enjoy Boys Guesthouse is located in Konglor near the river. This is a good place to spend the night. The road to the guest house from the main road (grey arrows) is in a very poor condition. Especially after the rain, the mud can become too soft to drive on. In that case, you can take a road from the Konglor centre instead (blue arrows).
The host is a local lady who is very sweet and always tries to accommodate everyone to her best abilities. The guesthouse is very clean and also cheap!
A private room has a double bed or two single beds, all equipped with a mosquito net. Very simple setting, good stop to refresh and rest before another long day of driving and exploring.
There is a restaurant opposite serving local food. Alternatively, you can walk/drive into Konglor centre (500 m from the guesthouse) to grab dinner at Eco Lodge.
Private room (2 people): Kip 40 000
Google maps
Day 3 Konglor to Thalang
From the Enjoy Boy guesthouse, you can drive to Eco Lodge for some tasty breakfast! I had chocolate pancakes, they are VERY sweet. The best part is free parking for the motorbike! The Konglor cave is only a 10-15 minute walk away. You can also drive and park at the cave for a small fee.
Konglor Cave
The highlight of the Thakhek loop!
At the second entrance booth, you will get your boatman assigned. Here you will also get flip flops, they are good enough for exploring the cave and keeping your shoes dry. Locker is provided for any valuables.
The entire tour will last approximately 3 hours, but it’s possible to complete in 1 hour if you have less time. The tour consists of a 7 km ride in the boat, 15-minute walk inside the cave and 2 hours to spend in the village on the other side (you can choose to spend less time here).
On the other side of the cave, it’s possible to rent a bike for Kip 20 000 and explore the nearby villages.
During the wet season, lots of water can enter the boat, it’s a good idea to bring a dry bag. Unlike during the dry season, the river is very shallow and often the boatman will request for you to step out of the boat while he moves it across a small rapid.
When you return back to Kinglor take your lunch before departure. The restaurant just outside the Konglor park gates serves cheap and good food. From here it’s approximately 2 hours drive to your next stop.
Entrance: Kip 65 000 per person for a shared boat (3 people)
Parking: Kip 5 000
Google maps
Dragon Cave
A very big cave that you can explore on foot. Most of the way is pretty well lit, you will have to squeeze past smaller openings to explore more of the cave. This is lit in many different colours, again this is not the most natural view but the cave itself is very impressive.
Entrance: Kip 5 000
Parking: free
Google maps
Thalang, Sabaidee Guesthouse
Back to our favourite guesthouse!
Once again, if you have an opportunity, you should definitely go for a double room! You can meet lots of solo travellers and share the room. A private room will cost you the same as if you stay in the dorm, but it will be much cleaner, beds more comfortable and you will have a mosquito net.
And don’t forget about the BBQ mentioned before.
Dorm Bed: Kip 30 000
Private Room (2 people): Kip 60 000
Google maps
Day 4 Thalang to Thakhek
Last day on the loop! Long way drive back to Thakhek, with some awesome stops along the way.
Song Sa Waterfall
It will take you about 1 hour to drive to the Song Sa waterfall from the guesthouse. Look out for the road sign, it will be a hard one to spot. A short drive to the parking spot is along the dirt road.
From the parking it’s another 10-minute walk to the waterfall, there you can leave you things behind and explore around. It’s not going to be busy if you’re doing Song Sa Waterfall before midday, we arrived on a weekday before midday and we were the only people there.
There is a jump! I would guess maybe 7 meters!?
Please ensure it’s safe to jump when you’re visiting! Different season and rainfall can change the depth of the pool.
Entrance: Free
Bike parking: Kip 5 000
Google maps
Sunset at the Elephant Cave
Final stop! Very near to the Thakhek Town you can explore one last cave and watch a sunset from the top of the Elephant Cave.
From the cave, you can head back to Thakhek town to complete your loop! Congratulations!
Entrance: Kip 10 000
Bike parking: Free
Google maps
Thanks for reading! Here’s a photo chappy photo of me self, half way done with the loop (yay!).
Thakhek loop was my first loop! It was very rewarding to complete this experience, see lots of amazing sights and meet a bunch of awesome people to travel with. I hope this guide helps you plan, please note that I purposely skipped mentioning a few places because I did not think they were worth visiting. I hope you have a safe trip in Thakhek!
Roni on the Run 